![]() ![]() Mixing equipment will be required, too, including an empty joint compound bucket or the equivalent, and a mixer bit for your drill. a brush for applying water during final smoothing.a narrow trowel (or wallboard knife) for smoothing small areas and finishing around pipes.a carrier called a hawk, with its square top surface and handle below.You will need the same tools as a professional plasterer. But you don’t have to apprentice to a professional plasterer for a year and a day to be able to produce a quite satisfactory finish. Skim coating requires some skill with a trowel, so it you’ve never held a trowel in your hand, you would be well advised to start out with a little patching work first. The skim-coat approach, which involves the application of a single, eighth-inch-thick layer of plaster over the entire wall or ceiling surface, is a compromise, offering something of the character and quality of real plaster with the economy and speed of wallboard. ![]() This is a middle ground between three-coat plastering and simply taping and coating the seams between sheets of wallboard. Yet because it is both labor- and material-intensive, it can be prohibitively expensive. The advantages remain, as it’s durable, adds significantly to soundproofing, and, in the opinion of many people, has more character. See separate datasheet for more details.The three-coat method, which requires strips of wood or metal lath for reinforcement, is relatively rare today. For application to lath, please refer to Lime Green.Ĭ) Topcoat: Apply Lime green Solo, once the backing coats have had sufficient time to cure. Key the final coat of Duro Natural, whilst still green, with a "nail" or "devil" float before applying the topcoat. A second undercoat maybe applied after the previous has adequately cured. If the substrate is too dry, dampen down the surface prior to coating. Each coat must be scratched to give a good mechanical key before further coats are applied. Dub out deep holes with Duro Natural and key.ī) Base coat and floating coats: Apply an undercoat of Duro Natural between 9 to 12 mm thick directly to a prepared substrate. Lightly spray each coat with water if it is hot or the product is drying too quickly.Ī) Stipple and dubbing coats (optional): Apply Lime Green Natural Stipple coat on dense impervious backgrounds (see separate datasheet). Prevent all coats from drying out too rapidly. ![]() Reworking: up to 8 hours Further coats: after 2 to 7 days, once the coat has stiffened / hardened, but is still "green". Please consult lime green for more information. The number of coats is dependent on the surface to which the render is applied, the exposure of the building and the finish required. Mix for up to 10 min in mixer, or use a mechanical whisk for 2-3mins, stand for 10 minutes, then mix once more before application. Add only 4-5 litres of clean water to each 25 kg sack. Ensure downspouts are not leaking on to the substrate.Īdd the whole bag of pre-mix into drum mixer carefully avoiding creating excessive dust. Ensure Masonry is not waterproofed or painted. Surface Preparation Remove dust, surface contaminants and loose or friable existing render/plaster. This does not include any allowance for wastage. Duro Natural is ideal for most old buildings or newer eco-friendly construction where a pure lime render or plaster is desired.Īpproximately 1.7kg per mm of thickness over 1m². Duro Natural does not contain PVA or acrylic, cement or PFA or any other materials containing toxins or which reduce breathability. Duro Natural is a breathable, elastic and salt resistant undercoat.
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